Ask the Guide: Lawrence Ngugi on 25 Years in Laikipia’s Bush

Lawrence Ngugi was raised in Laikipia, and for the past 25 years he has guided guests across its plains from Borana Lodge. He guides in English, and while his specialities cover everything from big cats to tracking, he’ll be the first to admit birds aren’t really his thing. We asked him to slow down for a few questions of his own.

25° SOUTH: Tell us about a sighting you’ll never forget.

Lawrence: I will never forget two male lions fighting over a female right next to my vehicle. They got so close that they hit my side mirror during the fight. At one point, I even had a chance to touch the mane. I was carrying a boxer from the Netherlands that day, and he was completely scared by what was happening.

25° SOUTH: The animal guests always want to see versus the animal you most love showing them. Same or different?

Lawrence: Guests almost always want to see lions. For me, I am happy with a cheetah. I really enjoy watching their behaviour, especially when they are hunting or preparing to hunt.

25° SOUTH: What does the bush smell like at 5am?

Lawrence: It smells fresh. You get the smell of grass, wet soil and different plants. It is also very quiet at that time, before the bush really comes alive.

25° SOUTH: What do most visitors walk right past without noticing?

Lawrence: Most visitors concentrate on the big animals and miss the smaller things. I pay a lot of attention to plants, insects, trees, birds and tracks. There is always something interesting happening if you take the time to look.

25° SOUTH: Is there a sound in the bush that still stops you in your tracks?

Lawrence: The sound of oxpeckers calling from dense bush always gets my attention. Sometimes you cannot see them, but you hear them clearly. I immediately start trying to work out what is happening around them.

25° SOUTH: What’s something you know now that you wish you’d known on your very first game drive?

Lawrence: I wish I had known how important patience is. You don’t always have to drive around looking for animals. Sometimes you just stop, listen and observe, and the bush gives you something.

25° SOUTH: What’s the hardest part of the job that guests never see?

Lawrence: The hardest part is probably having to stay alert all the time. You are watching the animals, the road, other vehicles, the weather and the surroundings at the same time. You always have to think ahead because things can change very quickly.

25° SOUTH: What’s a skill this job has given you that surprises people?

Lawrence: I can make quite a few animal and bird calls. Sometimes I use them to get the attention of a bird or to see how it responds. Spending so many years in the bush has also taught me to recognise many different calls and understand what they can mean.

25° SOUTH: When a sighting goes quiet and nothing’s happening, what’s going through your mind?

Lawrence: I don’t think that nothing is happening. I start listening and looking around. I watch the birds, the vegetation and the behaviour of other animals. Sometimes they give you a clue about what you cannot see.

25° SOUTH: What’s the funniest thing you’ve seen out on a drive?

Lawrence: I once saw a male baboon take a baby vervet monkey and hold onto it for more than 15 minutes. He refused to let it go. Eventually, the other baboons gave an alarm call, and he finally left it. It was one of the strangest and funniest things I have seen.

25° SOUTH: What’s a common thing visitors get wrong about the bush before they arrive?

Lawrence: Many visitors think the bush is mainly about the big animals. Once you spend enough time here, you realise that everything is connected. Birds, insects, trees, plants and tracks can tell you just as much about what is happening as the animals themselves.

25° SOUTH: After all these years, is there still something out there you’re hoping to see for the first time?

Lawrence: Yes. I am still hoping to see a black leopard and a pangolin in the wild. Those are two sightings I am still waiting for.

25° SOUTH: What gives you hope?

Lawrence: Seeing wildlife continue to thrive gives me hope. I also like seeing visitors become more interested in conservation after spending time in the bush. When people understand what they are seeing, they appreciate why it needs to be protected.

25° SOUTH: What worries you?

Lawrence: Meeting a male elephant in musth on a narrow road or near a cliff edge, especially when there is nowhere to turn. You have to give that animal a lot of respect and think carefully about your next move.

25° SOUTH: If you could ask visitors to do one thing differently, what would it be?

Lawrence: Slow down and look at everything, not just the big animals. Look at the birds, insects, trees, plants and tracks. The bush is full of small details, and sometimes those details tell the best stories.

Quickfire round

Short and instinctive — first thing that comes to mind.

• Sunrise or sunset drive? Sunrise!
• Big cat or big bird? Big cat!
• Most overrated animal? Lion!
• Most underrated animal? Hyena!
• Your camp meal after a long day? Rice and beans!
• One word for the bush? Wilderness!
• Coffee at dawn or sundowner at dusk? Sundowner at dusk!
• Camera or binoculars? Binoculars!
• Walking safari or game drive? Walking safari!
• Full moon or pitch dark? Pitch dark!

A big thank you to Lawrence for taking part in our Q&A. If you want to safari with him, he guides at Borana Lodge, in the Borana Conservancy on the Laikipia Plateau, Kenya.

More from our Ask the Guide series: Toppers Muleya on Hwange, Andrew Mweetwa on South Luangwa and Denis Mugabo on Rwanda’s gorillas.